Tassie and the GOR*


*Tasmania and The Great Ocean Road.

I thought I’d better get down my experiences in said places. The Tassie trip was organised by Kevin: flight to Hobart, stay there for two nights, drive hire car north, sightseeing on the way to Launceston (pronounced lawn-ses-ton in Aus, in the UK the it’s pronounced lawnston). Then we fly back from there.

If you had said a year ago that I would be visiting Tasmania within a year, I’d have said yeah right, in the vernacular. But there we were queuing up at Melbourne’s Tullamarine airport for the Jetstar flight to Hobart. It was a very early morning flight and it was very early doors out of the flat to get to the airport. Just over an hour later, we landed, picked up the hire car and I had my first taste of driving in Australia, albeit Tasmania, but its no different. After breakfast in a Salamanca Market (of which more later) cafe, we straight away went up to the top of Mt Wellington, which is 1270 mtrs. The drive up was ‘interesting’, and the climb made our ears pop. From the 26° in Sydney a week or so previously, we were now subject to snow and 5°.

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Amazing sights of the whole Hobart area from that height:

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Its like a giant Google map and gives a huge idea of what it feels like floating that high. We spent quite a bit of time up there, the local council have built an enclosed viewing platform and walkways leading to the best panoramic viewpoints. After our stay up there we drove down to the ‘hotel’, actually a backpackers hostel in the middle of Hobart.

We went down to the harbour area that night and although it was very crisp, it was a lovely evening. We had fish and chips in a very nice fish restaurant and made our way back to the accommodation. I had felt a little under the weather the whole day and was hoping the hotel would be warm. Unfortunately I was disappointed; the corridors were open to the elements, and the back packers area at their back of the building, so the rooms weren’t exactly cosy. I felt bloody awful and went to bed shivering like I had ‘flu. The next morning we went to the famous Salamanca Saturday Market in the middle of Hobart and looked around the 200+ stalls, selling just about every local produce imaginable. With busking musicians dotted around and an abundance of stalls selling a range of eats, it was a surrounding experience, full of colour, sounds and smells. We had scheduled the afternoon to go to MONA, the Museum of New and modern Art, which had opened 2 years ago at a cost of many millions of dollars. Part of the whole experience was to travel from Hobart harbour to MONA on the disruptive pattern painted catamaran which took about 30 minutes to get there:

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There were some very interesting exhibits, like this ‘fat Porsche’.

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Or this white room:

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But don’t ask me to explain them….

It was a very interesting experience nonetheless, and one that’s not to be missed when visiting Tassie. After another cold night we were making our way to Boolorong Wildlife Park to see indigenous rescue animals in the flesh, including hand feeding kangaroos:

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That whole visit was a whole new experience, I’ve never been that close to koalas, wombats and Tasmanian Devils, who incidentally get a bad press:

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They are nowhere near as aggressive or manic as Looney Toons depicted them. They are nearly blind, only seeing a few feet ahead, but their hearing is excellent. Since they feed mostly on carrion, their reputation (enhanced by those cartoons), meant they were vilified by the locals because of the horrific noise they made while feeding, earning the ‘devil’ epithet. Another animal which supposedly became extinct in 1936 was the Thylacine or Tasmanian Tiger, which was dog sized and shaped with tiger-like stripes over its hindquarters, had a long non-waggable tail and a marsupial pouch facing the rear. Like the devil, the Thylacine was wrongly blamed for culling sheep, when in fact it was a poor hunter and also fed mainly on carrion. Sheep farmers actively hunted them and wiped them out, but some Tasmanians insist they have heard them in the wilds of the island, although none have been spotted. The last living one died in a zoo in Washington DC.

We stayed in Launceston for one night, coincidentally in the same hotel that the town of Melbourne was formed by three businessmen, one of whom was called Batman, and this was originally what the town was going to be called, seriously. We looked around the town, specially the famous gorge:

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Then made our way to the airport for the flight back, arriving in Melbourne about 5pm on the Monday.

The next day we set off for the GOR* in the borrowed Ford Falcon. I think Ford Australia missed a trick not exporting the Falcon to the UK, I thought it was a great drive. We booked our first night in the Grand Pacific Hotel in Lorne, and set off using the Sat Nav to get there, passing the Ford factory at Geelong. We stayed the first night here:

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After a lovely drive along the GOR, with its swooping scenery and sheer drop cliffs alternating with twisting roads through heavily wooded hill sides. Breathtaking doesn’t cut it as a description:

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This is Sinclair Falls behind Lorne.

We moved on towards the 12 Apostles, probably one of the most iconic images of Australia behind Ayers Rock, this is part if it:

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…although it is split in two parts from the viewing platform, which itself is on a promitory sticking out from the coastline. This is the other side:

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The more observant will notice that there aren’t in fact 12 bits of rock, but it depends on where you stand on how many can be counted. I got up to 7, which is the average. We got to the area of the Apostles along the GOR, experiencing the same swooping scenery as before, coming across small coastal villages and homesteads that had been set up where a flat inlet of land could be developed. We had booked ahead, online, accommodation in a small town, Port Campbell which is 10 minutes drive from the 12 Apostles. The weather had started to turn after some glorious days, and on the first day we visited it was pouring rain. Groups of tourists were queuing up to take the helicopter rides from behind the main parking area. We sat in the car with a picnic and decided to come back the next day and were rewarded with a sunny, but windy, day. When we booked into our cottage, we were given a bigger one by our host Sue, who looked after us very well.

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Port Campbell, although small, had some nice eating places which we took advantage of, and we stayed a further night to explore the area more. The town along the coast was Peterborough, but was nothing like the Cambridgeshire town, it was a sleepy village that was closed, not a soul about: don’t bother going there. There are many other bays and features to see, the other main one being where the schooner Loch Aird perished in the late 19th century with two survivors.

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Having explored the area, we were due to go back to Melbourne. We got to the GOR via the coast road, but there is a ‘highway’ the A1, which bypasses the coast and is a direct route back. We decided to go back via the A1 and via a ‘food trail’ which were places which produced locally sourced food and alcohol. We stopped at the Timboon whisky distillery and tasted their single malt, and other liqueurs and bought some to take home. We eventually got to the A1, which is surprisingly a single carriageway, and decided, since we had time to retrace our steps, to visit Torquay which we had bypassed on the way to the GOR in our haste to get to the coast. I’m glad we did, Torquay is a lovely little town and a centre for surfing, and especially windsurfing. We had lunch in a lovely ramshackle restaurant overlooking the sea, and made our back ‘home’, our daughters apartment.

So that was the end of our sojourn to Tasmania and the Great Ocean Road, a week of total contrasts, weather and sights. We now had 10 days left of our Australian trip, to spend in and around Melbourne. Watch out for the next installment.

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Melbourne odds and sods


I’d forgotten that in my hurry to get down on paper (figuratively), my experiences in Australia that I had missed some of the things Melbourne had to offer.

In our first hectic week Teresa (daughter) and Kevin (son-in-law) had: taken us on a walk around their local area of Brunswick; seen Teresa in her amdram play and met some of their friends. The Australians seem to plan for physical activity: scenic footpaths are well planned, cycle paths parallel these, and are used extensively. Cycling is well catered for generally, with lots of cycle shops and dedicated paths even in the city centre. Also helmets are a legal necessity: excellent.
Teresa’s play was ‘Up For Grabs’, by David Williamson a well known Australian playwright. It was staged in the West End in the early 2000s with Madonna of all people in the title role. Her performance was slated by the critics, mainly because of the changes she wanted to make to her character’s name and other things, and it only had a very short run. In Australia it has been staged many times and is very popular. Teresa played Simone, an art dealer who is trying to play several buyers of a painting against each other to get the best price, while also trying to cover her possible loss if she doesn’t get the right price. It’s an hilarious romp through the whole gamut of emotions and laughter, with surprising twists and a satisfying denouement. Teresa was of course fantastic, and delivered her well-timed lines with aplomb and confidence, and I’m not just saying this because she’s my daughter, she was genuinely superb, a budding professional if I ever saw one.

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We met their friends Simon and Gaspare in a night market in Victoria Market a 19th century artifact, which also holds day markets several times a week. The place was heaving:

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A great emphasis is placed on food in Melbourne and the market was no exception. Queues were snaking around the whole market for the delicious smelling food from the four corners of the world. We settled on the shortest queue which was a stall selling pulled pork rolls; really tasty. There were also a couple of bars selling a range of beer and wine. Now, I’m a real ale man and had the preconception that Oz was all about ‘bloody lager’. No, not the case, many so-called ‘craft’ beers are produced, and these would be closest to what I would call bitter, but the Ozzies like it ice cold, rather than my preference of cool. Oh well, when in Rome…

We had a week to go before our Sydney trip so we certainly saw a lot of Melburnian life including a Sunday afternoon roast dinner in a nightclub type bar with a seven piece1920s jazz band; Andrew Nolte and his Orchestra, playing sometimes obscure songs from that era. But they were very good, look at their page:

https://m.facebook.com/AndrewNolteandHisOrchestra?id=107508869374214&_rdr

The roast lamb dinner was also excellent.

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Actually this is from a steak restaurant we went to later, but it gives an idea

We went for walks around central Melbourne’s myriad lanes and shopping streets of which there are many. We also went for a stroll along the riverside and walked through the biggest casino I’ve ever seen, part of the Crown hotel. At 10 in the morning people were playing one-arm bandits and croupiers were dealing blackjack hands: unbelievable! The whole city is beautiful, and within a short distance you can get to a lovely beach at St Kilda or rolling countryside northeast of the city, with wineries and craft breweries. Then a bit further out, about an hour, you have the Great Ocean Road (GOR), which is an amazing rugged coastline of swooping roads falling down to the sea, followed closely by soaring cliffs and violent drops, an incredible journey. More of that in another blog. Also within the city limits are three world class sporting venues: the Melbourne Cricket Ground (the ‘G’), the AAMI rugby league stadium and the Rod Laver Arena, which is used for concerts as well as for sports. All these within strolling distance of the centre. Maybe I’m waxing a bit too lyrical, but the town has that effect on me.

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Federation Square

Teresa is involved with the Melbourne Fringe Festival which runs until early October, so she’s involved with volunteering for that. The advantage is that we get to see some really good fringe theatre/shows with the odd freebie thrown in. Incidentally, Aussies generally shorten or simplify words such as freebie, which is known in the UK, but also use terms such as selfie (self portrait using a phone or camera), stubby (short bottle of beer), tradie (tradesman), sunny (sunshine – only kidding!), and tend to say Fed Square or Freo (Fremantle). All very self explanatory and kind of quaint. The other thing I’ve noticed about Oz, as I’ve mentioned before, is the take up of shop space, which is exceptionally high. In discussion at a fringe event (The Last Temptation of Randy, a very funny glove puppet), and afterwards I discovered the reason: mail order. Its almost none existent in Australia because so much stuff is imported, and usually from great distances. Whereas everything we want from eBay, Amazon or Argos is usually delivered within a few days, and we want to know why if it isn’t, here you order stuff and then forget about it. When it arrives four weeks later, you are pleasantly surprised it has arrived so soon. So this explains the demise of the high street store in the UK, and why it’s booming in Australia: you can’t get it quicker or probably cheaper any other way. Another plus point for this fascinating country.

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I leave you with a view from one of Melbourne’s bridges. My next exciting installment (if you can bear the suspense) will be our trips to Tasmania (Tassie!), and the GOR Great Ocean Road. See what I mean!

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Sydney and the Blue Mountains Pt 2


So to continue the story:

The train journey of two hours was interesting in that it steadily climbs out of Sydney up fairly steep gradients (it seemed to me), without faltering or apparent drop-off of speed. The train stopped at a number of commuting areas on the outskirts, then stopped mostly, after Parramatta, at small mountain towns and settlements. The railway follows the western road highway exactly so it saves on building separate routes presumably. The coaches themselves have an interesting feature, besides having three levels, in that each bench seat backrest can be pulled in either direction, so that four people can face each other, or be in rows facing the same way. Useful if you don’t want to look at other ugly mugs first thing in the morning!

We arrived at Katoomba at about 5 o’clock on that Sunday, and again a helpful chap guided us to the lift, and another pointed out the direction of the YHA hostel where we were staying for four nights. Now being a mountainous area the town was not built on the flat, so we walked down a steep high street with the wheely suitcase and up the other side to the hostel which was handily placed next to the police station. That was a hell of a journey, about 3/4 mile I’d guess and I was quite puffed when we got there. Yes I know should’ve taken a cab but there were none around. We would certainly go back to the station by that method. The YHA building had an interesting history as a dance hall, hotel and religious order retreat, but had been a hostel for about 10 years. The man on reception was very helpful and showed us to our comfortable on-suite room:

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No it’s not five star luxury, but the bed was very comfortable. The amenities were very good too with a huge communal kitchen and lounge areas. The next morning we walked back up to the top of town to get bus passes for the circular hop on-hop off service around the main attractions and sight seeing areas. For $25 they last two days, but the guy doing ours stamped them for three days: result! We went round the whole circuit first to see what was what and spent some time looking around the whole Katoomba/Leura area. That evening I had arranged to meet up with an old RAF buddy of mine who I hadn’t seen for over 30 years. He was driving from Richmond, about an hour away, and wanted somewhere to have dinner. We had gone past the ‘RSL’, which is very like the British Legion only nicer. You don’t have to be ex-service, they’ll sign anyone in so we decided it would be OK. John, my friend, met us at the YHA with his two daughters Chloe and Tash. It was great to swap stories after so many years, but we tried to include Fran, who had never met John, and his girls. The meal was lovely then John drove back too Richmond, a nice evening.

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The next day and the day after we did the touristy bits around the ‘Three Sisters’, Echo Point, and the rest of the Blue Mountains. As I said I won’t be describing the full tourist descriptions of ‘scenes from a travelogue’. These can be got from Google or any library. As a taster here are some pictures:

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The last one is taken through the floor of the cable car which stretches across a valley. The glass turns clear after moving off from the station – spooky!

So, after some sight seeing, local historic places visited and meals out and in the kitchen, including a return visit to the RSL for our anniversary dinner, we departed on the Thursday morning, (this time with a cab!) on the train back to Sydney. When we arrived it was a simple transfer to a local train three stops down for the domestic airport and the flight back to Melbourne, all very smooth and easy. The only mistake was getting a bus from Melbourne airport in the centre of town, thinking we could easily get a tram back to Lygon Street; it wasn’t and we didn’t. We ended up walking about 2 miles ( or so it felt) dragging a suitcase, not to be repeated! Anyway we got back, that’s the main thing.

I thought it was only Melburnians who were polite and helpful; we encountered similar attributes where ever we went in New South Wales as well. For example teenagers give up their seats for older/less able people. Rubbish is not chucked everywhere. ‘Seniors’ are respected and are treated respectfully, there is a whole atmosphere of friendliness and ‘niceness’, a horrible word, I know but it fits the mood. Charity shops are called Op Shops (Opportunity) and are embraced. The clothes are always in very good condition (I bought a Rip Curl cotton shirt – an excellent well-known make for $6, about £3.50 and it’s immaculate and seems like brand-new). The streets are clean, there’s no gum on the pavements (or very little), and nearly all the shops are occupied and seem to be prosperous. There’s hardly any empty shops, multiple betting shops or rows of charity shops like there is in the UK. There’s an air of prosperity, although that may be short-lived when Australia’s mineral exports start slowing down. At the moment though, all seems good, with a change of government that may get even better, time will tell. I like Australian attitudes, the fact that shop assistants and serving staff can understand and speak English, and all are helpful in the extreme, as if its a pleasure to serve you, not an inconvenience like it is sometimes at home. It’s refreshing and its what Britain would have been like 30 years ago, but has now lost the olde worlde charm. I wish we could get it back. It seems to work here in Australia and they are still a modern, with-it nation. Some wish, it’ll never be like that in the UK.

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Sydney and the Blue Mountains Part 1


Part of the whole deal coming to Australia was to fit in visits to other areas. A week long sojourn was planned to go to Sydney and Katoomba, in the heart of the Blue Mountains.

The planning is easy with the internet and on-line payments. I now trust this method of paying for goods and services and although some are still sceptical and afraid of losing their money, in reality this rarely happens and if it does, redress is always available. So having paid for the Etihad flights to get put here online, the trip to Sydney followed suit. We decided that to see a bit of the countryside from Melbourne, we’d travel up by train, stay in Sydney for three days, then get a train to Katoomba, stay there for four nights then train it back to Sydney, then fly back to Melbourne. The accommodation was the next thing to organise and I found a B&B in Sydney and booked the YHA hostel in Katoomba, on the recommendation of my eldest daughter who had done the same 18 months earlier. The train from Melbourne to Sydney was scheduled to take 11 hours, as it is nearly 1000 kilometres distant. So our son-in-law gave us a lift to the local commuter station and we caught the train into Melbourne, then walked round to the Sydney train, all very easy. As I mentioned before, Aussie people are the friendliest, most helpful people I’ve come across, and offer their advice and help all the time. The woman on the suburban train who told us an easier way to get to Melbourne Central, the man in the ticket office there who took us in his buggy to the platform, nothing seems to be too much trouble. So we settled into our first class seats (the extra was worth it), and started to enjoy the long journey towards Sydney. We had started the day without breakfast so once we had got going, I decided to explore the buffet car to get some. Unfortunately we were disappointed, it was microwave food; salty, bland and not that good value. Still the scenery was nice and we did see wild kangaroos and wallabies.

We arrived in Sydney at 8.00pm, and knowing nothing about the place and it was dark, we opted for a cab ride to our B&B. The taxi driver was bright and intelligent, and although Sydney is a huge city and multi layered he knew where he was going, not always a necessary attribute required of cab drivers, as we found out later. I had already phoned ahead to told the B&B owner we were on our way. I had installed a local SIM in my phone, with the help of my son in law; it’s always a good idea to get a local SIM rather than use a UK one and rack up their charges which can be extensive. I got a $30 Optus card (£18) with loads of minutes and texts paid for, so for calling our daughter and others, it was the best route. I’m no geek, but changing a SIM is easy. Anyway after a bit of trouble finding the entrance, which we found out later had been blown out of solid rock, we arrived at Linley House, our home for the next 4 days:

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The weather in Sydney was lovely and the next few days would remain that way. After a great nights sleep on the superbly comfortable bed, we had a ‘continental’ style breakfast, served by Chris White, the landlord who had retired a year earlier from the finance industry to set up his residence of 20 years into a guest house. His wife Helen worked full time at Sydney University. He asked us what our plans were, and when we said the usual tourist stuff, he offered us a lift to the ferry station, where we could get the ferry to Circular Quays the main transport for Sydney. We accepted gratefully and Chris took us on the 10 minute drive to the ferry. We had a time to wait, so I decided to take some pictures from the ferry pontoon: (excuse the marks on all pictures – dirty lens, I’ll clean them up in the edit)

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After doing this, I was packing the camera up and as I did so I dropped my sunglasses which bounced down onto some steps leading down to the water. Of course they found the only gap in the kerb which lead down, and as I scrabbled to recover said sunnies, my reading glasses decided to join the party and jumped out of my top pocket and fell onto the step one down from them. The consequence of doing this was to badly scrape my left forearm, right knee and wrist; very painfully. Blood was everywhere, and a kindly fellow passenger offered a cloth to mop it up. It looked worse than it was, and no I have no pictures of the damage. But although my pride and my arm hurt, my glasses, two pairs off, where intact and unscratched, lord knows how. A good start to the day, not, but at least it got better. This whole story is not meant to be travelogue in the Peter Sellers manner: ‘Bal-ham, gateway to the south’, to anyone who can remember that far back, but more my observations of how we (that’s Fran and I) tackled various aspects of being a ‘tourist’. The ferry trip was superb, we went under the Harbour Bridge and was subsequently to walk and drive across it. Words can’t describe this icon of the world, suffice it to say that it is wonderful to behold.

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During the day we did the tourist route, around the Sydney Opera House which is another of those iconic images seen the world over that when seen close up fulfils all the superlatives that ever been bestowed on it. We met a couple from Antrim who had been living in Perth for a year and took this photo of us at the back of the SOH:

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The weather for the whole of our Sydney/Blue Mountains trip was lovely, warm and sunny; which always helps. Darling Harbour was spectacular with all the watery things around it; some of the boats, floating gin palaces, were monuments to excess and flamboyance; each to his own I guess. That night we were invited to our neighbours sons flat for dinner. Steve is the CIO (Chief Information Officer) for a very large world-wide insurance company and his office overlooks Darling Harbour so we arranged to meet him at the base of his multistory office block and grab a cab to his apartment in North Sydney. So in one day we went under, walked over and drove over the bridge. Steve and his delightful girlfriend Toni live in a lovely block in sight of the north tower of the bridge:

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The views on all sides were spectacular though and their flat is lovely. We had a meal and few drinks prepared by Steve, and got a cab back to the B&B, bypassing some argument going on outside the gate between a man and a car driver where neither were backing down: bizarre. Maybe this is what made the driver forget to put his meter on so when we arrived, he asked me how much I wanted to pay; that’s never happened to me before. I judged it on the cab ride the night before and he seemed happy with that. The next day during breakfast the B&B owner offered us the same lift to the ferry stop, appropriately called ‘Woolwich’. This time I didn’t drop anything and made it to the Circular Quays without a scratch. We had already planned to go to Manly which is a 30 minute ferry ride. So here’s a tip which we found out: buy an all-day transport ticket for $22 (£12) which can be used on the ferries, light railway (tube-type train) and buses and we used all three. The ferry to Manly alone is $14 so you are up immediately. We went over on the ferry and walked around the resort which has the feel of an island, but is in fact a peninsular. At its narrowest it’s only two blocks wide, so from the ferry to the beach is a ten minute walk. Manly is a great place to visit, and like most of Australia, the bits I’ve seen anyway, exude prosperity. This is one hell of a well off country, even though I haven’t seen the less salubrious side of life in the cities; the fact is you don’t see it like you do in say London, where there is a beggar/vagrant on every corner, finishing his shift to go round the corner to jump into his late model beemer and drive home to his Pimlico flat. Not that anyone does that of course.

We walked along the promenade adjacent to Manly beach:

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The warm sun and light wind ensured that the surfing competition taking place didn’t produce high waves so the surfers struggled a bit to raise their game. At least the sea gulls had a more successful day grabbing the scraps of dropped food and scavenging from the waste bins. Again, as I’ve found throughout Australia, the place was spotless with nary a loose bit of paper or carelessly spat gum splatter, and I don’t think it’s got anything to do with it being a seaside resort, even the centre of the city was pretty clean.

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Anyway after an excellent lunch in what else, a fish restaurant, we headed back to Sydney on this ferry, and made our way to Darling Harbour where there was to be firework display to celebrate the last day of winter, August 31st. It felt strange that was that day because there were temperatures of 24°. The whole of the harbour was buzzing, with thousands of people gathering to watch the display. There was also some sort of charity fun run going on:

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But the main event was of course the fireworks:

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And they were spectacular! Thus is what Darling Harbour looked like beforehand:

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The next day we got up and our landlord again offered us a lift. We packed and he dropped us off at a bus stop to catch a bus to Central station to catch the train to Katoomba for the 2nd part of our New South Wales mini break. We stached the suitcases in the station lock up and toured around Sydney on the excellent, free, 555 bus. We decided to visit the Royal Botanical Gardens which are adjacent to the Opera House. They run a train around the grounds which takes 25 minutes to do the whole tour:

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There’s many an interesting plant and trees, plus the original governors house, but definitely one for the train, a walk is bit too far. Then we got the bus back to the station and bought the tickets for the 2 hour train journey. Interestingly just as I bought the tickets, I was asked if I had a concession card. When I offered my UK seniors bus pass, that was never accepted, it had to be a Victoria State concession, only available to citizens. Pity, in some cases I could have saved a fortune, but as it happens, train fares are very reasonable. For example the journey to Katoomba cost us $16 (£9.25) each one way. Compare that to UK prices: 120km for that price, over 100 miles. The trains themselves are interesting as well, nearly all of them are double decker, doubling capacity. So began our journey to the Blue Mountains which I’ll describe in part two.

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Melbourne


It started out about a year ago, when No. 2 daughter and husband announced that he had secured a position in another country. They have been looking at Brazil, Italy and others, but it finally turned out to be…Australia.

It was always on the cards that we would be going to visit them sometime, after all the precedent had been set with trips to Edinburgh, Brazil, Essex. So the planning started with arranging the flights and timings and we decided on a six week trip in the late summer/autumn. If six weeks seems excessive, sitting here after one week has flown, I don’t think so. After all the cost of flights there and back is no different over that period than for two weeks and we are staying for the majority of the time with the young couple. So flights, transfers, insurance all sorted. When the time came, it would seem that the 24 hour travel time was huge. In my mind it turned out to feel shorter than it was, but ‘t wife thought it was much longer. Horses for courses.

So picked up by said couple in a locally produced Ford something, the company Kevin works for. For a fleeting moment, it looked we had done a huge loop, and landed back at a strange airport. On the journey home, looking left and right on the left hand side of the road, we could have been driving away from any airport in the UK. The grass verges looked the same, the road signs were very similar, the cars on the road were familiar, the whole setup looked the same as at home. We arrived at the apartment and had a pasta take-away and we didn’t feel too bad, jet-lag wise. As the time drew on it got worse, but after 6 days I think I’ve broken the back of it. So to the city itself. Its a mixture of American grid street system and trams, coupled with a typically European eclectic mixture of modern and old buildings. In terms of large cities its reasonably large and spread put, but the CBD as it’s called (Central Business District – an Australian term), is compact. The famous Flinders station stands on one corner of the CBD, flanked by Federation Square and Collins Street which runs through the centre of it.
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The CBD

Anyway I’m anxious too get this out, haven’t had time to jot down the rest of the week. Sydney and the Blue Mountains to come!

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Baron Jean De Selys Longchamps DFC


I’ve sometimes been accused of only writing a rant. This is patently not true as those who have followed my scribblings for the last year will testify. I try not to rant all the time, but this world makes me see it’s injustices and what it’s coming to.  Statement over.

On 16th August 1943,  Flying Officer Baron Jean De Selys Longchamps DFC was returning from a sortie over Oostende in his 3(Fighter) Squadron Hawker Typhoon when he was set upon by German fighters and badly shot up, just as he was approaching his home base of RAF Manston in Kent.  He crashed landed and the tail of his aircraft broke up killing him:

Longchamps Crash

He was well known for a) being a member of the Belgium aristocracy who escaped to England from the French Vichy government after being interred and b) shooting up the Gestapo headquarters in Brussels in January 1943.  There is still a plaque on the wall of that building commemorating his exploit. He joined the RAF (after lying about his over-age, remarkably his 28 years at the time was considered too old), learnt to fly and became an ace pilot.

‘Wings Of Memory’ (www.wingsofmemory.be) who are based in Belgium, commemorate Belgians world wide who may have been forgotten about, and who fought in both world wars. I was invited by them to take part in a ceremony on August 16th to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Baron’s demise.  In attendance would be senior Belgium air force officers and representatives from the family of the Baron and the Belgian Embassy in London. Of course I accepted straight away and was proud to represent the squadron the Baron was on when he died. I also represented the 400+ members of the 3(Fighter) Squadron Association, of which I am chairman. The whole thing was organised by Wings of Memory in conjunction with the Minster Royal British Legion branch and was held at the cemetery in Minster-in-Thanet in Kent.

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Me accompanying an air cadet to lay a wreath from 3(F) Squadron at the headstone

BBC TV South and Kent local radio were in attendance and a member of the squadron at the time, and a great friend of the Baron, 92 year old Bob Barckley was interviewed for radio KMFM:

http://www.kentonline.co.uk/kentonline/features/the_update_with_kmfm_news.aspx.

There was also this page on the BBC News web site:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-kent-23725107

The whole event was carried out with great dignity, and it was interesting to hear from the Baron’s relations and what they remember of him. Some were not even born when he died, but his life had a lasting impression on the whole family.

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A selection of views from the day: top left; the marquee for the guests, top right; the headstone of Baron Jean de Selys Longchamps DFC, bottom left; the wreath laid by 3(F) Squadron Association, bottom right; the goat mascot of 609 Squadron*

* The goat is William de Goat, Mascot of 609 Sqn and written that way because it was a young Belgian Pilot, Vicki Ortmans who introduced him. William is Air Commodore DSO DFC, the Mascot of 609 (West Riding) Sqn. 609 was Jean de Selys first Sqn, and he was on that sqn at the time he attacked the Brussels Gestapo.  Thanks to Omer Vanden Bosch (Boomer) for this information.

There were flypasts from an RAF 3 Sqn Typhoon, and two Belgium F-16s fighter jets. The proposed flypast by a Hurricane from the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight was cancelled presumably due to the weather. Wreaths were laid by various groups, including the family, the Belgian air force, Belgian Embassy, the Royal British Legion and many others. There were many moving speeches and anecdotes, and the Squadron standard was paraded by the standard party of 3(Fighter) Squadron.  The whole event went off with military precision. Afterwards we were all invited to the Royal British Legion in Minster for a drink and a buffet. They laid on a magnificent spread and many new friendships were forged. Presentations were made to various organisers who enabled things to happen, like the fly-pasts and the erection of the marquee and many other incidentals without which the event would not have gone ahead. I sat and chatted with Bob Barckley who remarkably had come all the way from North Wales to attend, travelling the 200+ miles by taxi! He was determined to get there, despite the distance and his age, and thoroughly enjoyed the whole day.  As is usual for people who were in the war, he is totally unassuming about his role during the conflict. He flew with 3(F) Squadron and it’s Typhoons (the piston engineered variety, not the modern jet!) and was one of the pilots who destroyed V1 doodlebugs in that very fast aircraft. In fact one technique was to flip the wing of the V1 with his own wing, which upset the gyroscope within the machine and caused it to crash harmlessly. A modest, self-effusive man and one of many we should all be grateful for.

So after the farewells and handshakes it was off home. It was quite an experience, and one that shall stick in my memory for some time. That we still commemorate the exploits of those who fought and died so many years ago is testament to the esteem in which they are still held. It can’t be underestimated what a profound effect winning the 2nd world war has had on particularly this country, even after 68 years. If it had gone the other way, it doesn’t bear thinking about how our world would have ended up. We may not have a perfect existence, but due to men like Flying Officer Baron Jean De Selys Longchamps DFC and his ilk, we sure have one that is better than the alternative.

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The work starts


Further to my last blog about the Westland Wessex, I have been asked to contribute regularly to the newsletter that is being developed to support the restoration project. This is an extremely worthwhile cause and I hoping that by publicising my blog and by association the WHRP (Wessex Helicopter restoration Project – http://www.wessexhelicopter.co.uk), there may be people out there who; have been saved by a Search and Rescue Wessex, dropped off as part of a stick of soldiers by it, got transported in it (Hello Your Majesty!), piloted it, Loadmaster/Quatermastered it, engineered it, like helicopters generally or even admired it. These are the ones we need to reach to support what we are trying to do: to get a Wessex helicopter to flying condition. It’s early days yet, and there is loads to do, but none of what is to come can be achieved without funding.

You may have seen in the news recently about tax dodgers and revenue cheaters who have tried to rip off the country and live the life of Riley. Similarly the hero worship of scum like the Great Train Robbers who seem to hold folk-lore like esteem with the media. What is wrong with these people?  I really don’t think its the economic situation that forces them to become master criminals, indeed in a documentary about two men who defrauded people and companies of £18 million, it was said that their intelligence and cleverness required to carry out this fraud could have made them very successful business men. So why do it? I suppose it’s because the rewards are greater, along with the risks if you turn to life of crime. One of these men admitted guilt and offered to ‘give’ back £3,9 million; he was given a five year sentence, the other didn’t and received eight years. They’ll both be out in perhaps 2½ and 4 years respectively and will still have a huge wedge to come out to, because neither has admitted what they did with what was left. in one way you could say; nice work if you can get it, I’ll take the risks to have my liberty taken away, and sod those idiots who invested in my fraudulent scam. One woman lost £64,000 to a fraudster and has little prospect of getting it back. She wanted to pass the money on to her grandchildren, that won’t happen now. So the fraudsters must have hides of steel not to be affected by their victims losses. As one detective said; these people don’t do this to impress their mothers, they do for criminal gain and to live the high life, without having to work for it, like the rest of us. Personally I’d like to see all these fraudsters and tax evaders have ALL their assets taken away and re-distributed, so when they come out of gaol, they have nothing and have to start from scratch, which is where most of their victims had to start. A pipe dream I know but wouldn’t it be good, if these fraudsters and tax evaders thought of someone else for a change, not themselves and how much they can rip off the government or individuals.

Like for example contributing to worthwhile causes. Seems it’s the same with the ‘donation’ from that pensioner ex-nurse who left £500,000 to ‘whoever is in power’ in government.  At first the two coalition parties rubbed their hands with glee because they thought they would be getting the money for their party coffers.  After media protests, they rightly decided not to accept the gift. Instead the Treasury will receive it, no doubt to reduce the National Debt, about 0.00002% of it. Pity they couldn’t give the money to a good cause, like a children’s hospice or something, instead it will wind up funding an immigrant or dole scrounger, a really deserving cause.

On a completely different note, Mary Berry the cake baker, has been in the news about her nice demeanour and pleasing TV manner, compared to to some of the more brutish and foul-mouthed ‘celebrities’ who seem content to swear like troopers and shout at people on their programmes, like they found something nasty on the bottom of their shoe. I bracket them with those ‘chat show’ hosts who talk to their guests as if they were more important than the guest they are talking to, and treat them to disgusting language and embarrassing comments and antics.  Along with reality TV and talentless shows is this what this country’s TV is coming down to? The lowest common denominator. Into that mix I question the music that used to introduce programmes, like the news, but includes just about any programme in which the music is both raucous, unnecessary and LOUD! Why is the sound turned up between items and during adverts, whether commercial or public? Sometimes the presenter can’t be heard above the din of the ‘musac’ blaring out at the start of programmes. I single here for particular criticism, the news, especially BBC news. The music introducing news programmes within the corporation is both too loud and too obtrusive, and detracts from sometimes serious and depressing news. Why is it necessary? What does it achieve? Waking viewers up from their pre-news stupor to make sure they are listening? It’s horrible and unnecessary. All broadcasters note: music is an adjunct to the programme, not the main event, unless of course it IS a music programme.  It’s probably down to the 15 year old producers and vision mixers who only think that all music should be LOUD. No it doesn’t, turn it down.

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The Westland Wessex


The Westland Wessex was a military helicopter that was in service with predominantly the Royal Air Force (RAF) and the Royal Navy but was also operated by many other countries, latterly Uruguay, which operated ex-RAF aircraft until four years ago. It was used in the troop transport role and was the workhorse helio for the British armed forces for close on fifty years.

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More of the history of the Wessex can be found here:

http://www.wessexhelicopter.co.uk/history/4577921375

A Facebook group has been formed called Wessex Helicopter Restoration. Although the title may be self-explanatary the objects of the group are starkly simple: to obtain a Wessex airframe and get it airworthy with the ability to display it as a heritage aircraft. Much like the Vulcan the Wessex was British engineering at its best. Although it was copied from the Sikorsky S-58, it was actually a completely different aircraft developed by Westlands in the 50’s, and represented the best helicopter of its type well into the 21st Century. But, it was always an unsung hero, not as well known as the Vulcan but still a vital element in the defence of the country, particularly during ‘The Troubles’ in Ireland. So back to the object of the exercise: we’re looking for helpers, sponsors, supporters, sponsors, people who want to donate, anyone who is interested in getting a venerable old girl into the air again. Yes there are seemingly insurmountable obstacles and dead ends. In no particular order these include: funding, airworthiness approvals, a suitable airframe, storage, workshops, a restoration base area, volunteers; although to be fair we have a plethora of experienced Wessex engineers, pilots and other associated people, unless there are others interested. What we need most of all is enthusiasm, commitment and time. We feel the end result us achievable, after all it took years to get the Vulcan flying, but on their other hand it took a mere 24 months to get the recent Canberra PR9 airborne, which is a fantastic achievement. The will is there, all it needs is cash, and authority. I believe it’s possible.

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Top Gear?


So Top Gear, what’s it all about? For the overseas readers, Top Gear (TG) is a British television programme ostensibly about cars, vehicles, transport and so on. A consumer programme it ain’t. There ARE some consumer driven pieces in it, but I’ll explain these later. Here’s me standing by the famous logo:

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There was all sorts of vehicles in the hangar in Dunsfold in Surrey where the show is recorded. This is my daughter Charlotte standing by the Lamborghini, which was lovely and smelt heavily of leather; loads of cows must have shed their skin for this car. There was also the brand new London bus driven by James May, and a few of the ‘projects’ from previous series.

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But I digress, what is it about this show that divides opinion so much but is also consistently voted one of the BBC’s top programmes? A friend of Charlotte’s works next door to where the show is recorded, and gets (free) tickets for friends and family. So because no-one else wanted them, she invited me to accompany her to watch TG being recorded. Luckily it’s quite near to where we live, but some people have driven the length of the country to get there. There’s a lot of standing about; for at least 4 hours, so it gets to your legs. The layout is pretty much as you see it on TV, but for each setup, the crew have to move the audience of about 1000 people so that they stand around the presenters next item. Its a bit like herding cats, but they get there in the end. The recording proceeds more or less in the order it appears in the final transmission: we see the inserts as they go along with Clarkson and co presumably slipping out for a ciggie. They use no Autocue, and rehearse the show in the morning. They’ve been doing it for so long, they have got it down pat. Clarkson is obviously the lead, but the other two Richard Hammond and James May are excellent foils.

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The set-ups apart, the whole thing is run efficiently, and is recorded before 6 pm. I shall await with interest if my banter about parking on double yellow lines for short periods is kept in, but I doubt it. One of the most popular segments is the ‘Star in a Reasonably Priced Car’. This week it was Mark Webber, the Red Bull F1 driver who has recently announced he is departing the team. Clarkson’s interview with him lasted about 15 minutes, but this will probably be cut down to 5. Likewise the ‘News’ segment was recorded for over 20 minutes but will presumably be cut down. There was lots of swearing, off camera, and this was highlighted by ‘Outtakes’ tape they showed us, much of which was not broadcast able or even repeatable here.

The consumer segments, which in more traditional motoring programmes would include for example, everyday family cars, does not happen on TG. For instance, in this programme, Clarkson drives a Jaguar F type, about £80K, Hammond drives the new Range Rover which ‘starts’ at £50,000, and James May drives the ‘NBFL’, which stands for new bus for London; a snip at £300,000. BUT, it is totally produced in Britain, and this led on to the final segment which showed what is actually made in Britain, and the result seen on the screen is surprising. This was a breakaway from their usual jokey ending, possibly because it was the last one in the series; until next year. It just shows to go that the three presenters are serious journalists and well done to them for being so. Yes TG is more of a comedy show, than say the Channel 5 equivalent: fifth gear, which is a more serious consumer programme and gives appraisals of genuine family type cars. TG doesn’t even try to do this, but in its jokey manner can make serious comments about motoring in particular and life in general. Yes it has its detractors, but being the biggest money earner in the BBC’s inventory, I doubt if there’s any plans to shelve it soon. Clarkson joked that the only country in the world that doesn’t broadcast the show is France; I wonder why? Of course it’s really Jeremy Clarkson’s show, with the other two providing the foil to his sharp wit and acerbic comments, but it’s none the poorer for that.

So after 5 hours on our feet, we were glad to sit down in the car and get home. Two of the presenters were off to Venice that night, so it takes stamina to do that job. Me? I’ll settle down on Sunday night and try and catch my appearances on the show. I doubt they’ll be many.

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Cricket, lovely cricket and other sports


No don’t turn away or look at something else, cricket is one of this countries’ national sports, the other being that one where a ball is footed around, but more of that later. England won the first test in a five match series against Australia, if you hate cricket or sports in general, that result will mean nothing to you. The 2nd test at Lords has just started, and I’m watching it on my television. Nothing unusual about that you might think, but I’m not watching it on Sky, not directly anyway.

Let me explain; a chap called Rupert Murdoch owns the company (it used to be called News International, but I’m not sure what now), which also owns Sky television. Years ago, the BBC owned the rights to transmit live cricket, but lost out (not sure when) to Sky, who paid an enormous sum of money to show test cricket around the world. Now I’m not condemning the Beeb, they lost it fair and square, BUT, and here’s the rub, they won the right to broadcast Wimbledon, and after another tussle with Sky, the rugby 6 nations championships. Although to be fair, it was only the England home matches of the latter that Sky held on to. So while the Wales, Scotland and Ireland matches could be watched on BBC, only the England ‘away’ matches could be shown, until a few seasons ago when they could. Anyway enough of the history lesson, what’s the situation today? Well the BBC have gleefully just announced that they have the rights to all FA cup matches, including the final from season 2014-15. Of course they still have the ubiquitous Match of the Day, which ruins Saturday night. Yes, you’ve guessed it, I don’t like football. The BBC (our national broadcaster) spend loads of money on bloody football and tennis, but zilch on cricket. Why is this? Well for a start if you want ‘the works’ on Sky Sports, you have to pay £43.50 for the privilege. This includes all sports channels, and the F1 racing car channel, another excuse for a certain F1 owner to line his pockets. There is no lesser ‘package’ so that cost includes all league football, cricket and some, though not six nations, rugby. If, like me, you can’t stand football and its overpaid, preening, grabbing players and all the useless management of what should be ‘a beautiful game’, that turns it into a sordid circus, then you would begrudge paying £43 for a sport that you would never watch. And I do, so don’t, pay that is, but I still watch the live cricket. How is that you ask? There are several, perfectly legal, websites which stream the live cricket. It’s just a matter of finding them. I’m not sure about the legality of watching Sky without paying for it, but in my mind, Sky and the cricketing authorities get enough money without adding to it. Yet, the BBC are quite willing to spend a vast amount of money on football, but nothing on the other national game: cricket. Even when England won the last Ashes series, there was only sparse reports on TV news. If England (not that it would ever happen) football got into the world cup final, I would guess they would sell Television Centre again to pay for it. It was the same when the BRITISH Lions  won the latest Lions series in Australia. A magnificent feat, but how much of it was shown on terrestrial TV? A couple of minutes of highlights. Disgraceful, but I suspect that this was because despite being the British Lions, it does include players from Eire, so that probably discounts any coverage. I have a theory about this: football and other sports are deemed by some to be of a ‘lower’ class of game than say rugby and cricket, and the politically correct bosses want to see that they pandering to the masses who watch ‘the beautiful game’. When you see the antics of the millionaire football league players, many foreign, and compare them to slightly  less paid, but perhaps less likely to misbehave cricketers, I think the latter win out every time. On the other hand it could be because the greedy sports authorities want the maximum dollar for their sports to be shown, and the poor old punter is the one who has to have deep pockets. Fair comment that they want the maximum, but why sell out to only one provider? Simples! Because Sky charge you an extra amount for showing sports, but the TV licence stays the same. So IF sports coverage was shared, obviously everyone would opt for the cheaper, i.e. free service. Unless the BBC could only show the matches in normal vision and Sky have the rights to show in 3D, HD or whatever and you then pay the extra for that privilege.  Doubt if anyone will take up that idea though. With the BBC now having 4 TV channels, surely some sports could be shown on BBC3 or BBC4? No, it won’t happen.  Why am I banging on about this? Well my neighbour and friend is nearly 92 and still very agile and lively of brain. She loves her rugby and cricket, but as a pensioner do you think she could afford £43.50 to be able to watch test cricket? No of course not, she has other things to spend her money on, like living. But why should she be excluded from her favourite sports because of cost? She gets a reduced TV licence, and you could argue that the cricket is on Radio 5X. Doesn’t wash I’m afraid, cricket is best watched, not listened to, unless you are in your car. I doubt whether the administrators, booking agents, negotiators, and television executives think about ‘the little old lady’, but in my view, they should. The greed of everyone involved in the distribution and broadcasting of major sports need to have a rethink about their audience and make it fairer for every sports fan to watch what they want, without it costing a fortune. Rant over.

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